Making muslins for fitting is not something I like to do. So whenever I can, I try to make sure that something can be done with the muslin. However, when the pattern is asymmetrical or a bit confusing, it is really necessary to bite the bullet and just do it.
When I started making my Moto Jacket, I made muslins in two sizes, wadded them up and threw them in a corner. Turns out, of course, my Marie admired my finished jacket and expressed a desire to have me make her one too. I pulled the size 8 out and tried it on her. Except for a few inches pinned out of the chest, it fit perfectly! There's double-duty out of one muslin.
So I ransacked my stash(es), trying to think of what fabric would a pre-teen find not boring. And re-read the fabric possibilities on the pattern envelope. "Velvet", it said. Really?
Well, this was the velvet that I had, purchased to make a long skirt for Christmas, but didn't have time to. It is a panné velvet, I believe out of some kind of synthetic.
No problem, I thought. But oh my, I forgot velvet can't be pressed well. Luckily this is a kind of already distressed velvet. I agonized in my dreams about whether to fuse or not to fuse this fabric. I decided to use hair canvas in the fronts as well as the yoke to add body to the jacket. The velvet seemed a bit soft for a jacket. And lining it would help. Then I decided to go ahead and fuse interfacing to the front facings, using a towel facing the velvet side.
|Hair canvas pinned to fronts and yoke|
|The zipper pocket|
|inside view, with interfacing behind the zipper pocket window|
|clipping the zipper pocket window|
|pressing the zipper pocket window|
|pinning the zipper into the window|
|zipper topstitched into the window|
|Adding pocket bag|
|Layers to stitch together|
|Sewing around the pocket bag|
|The pocket bag finished, inside view|
|Zipper edge should be enclosed|
|This is how I mark the top of the sleeve cap with chalk. Easier than seeing a notch which gets lost when you gather ease.|
I cut the sleeves on the straight grain, rather than on the bias which the pattern says to do, because of the obvious "stripes" on the velvet. I am happy to see that they turned out well.
|Lining out of hammered satin feels very nice!|