Musical Sewing Room

Simplicity 2508

2011-12-06T15:43:00.001-08:00

This is a great coat pattern. The raglan sleeves and princess seams give it a flattering line. I made one in heavy cotton twill for my daughter last spring, and she has been wearing this, oh, only just about every time she goes out. The one pictured below in navy is mine, finished a few weeks ago. I love having a coat of this length. In Oregon, we don't really have a need for longer coats. They would just be cumbersome. For more info check my review.

Jacket version

Isabel likes to wear her jacket with everything!

Down Comforter Fix

2011-12-05T22:36:00.001-08:00

Have you ever had a comforter that went flat in the middle, and wondered where all the feathers went? That's eventually what happens with the ones that have channels sewn in a way that allows the feathers to go whichever way they want to. The problem is, you will end up with all the feathers migrating to the four corners of the comforter. I decided to put an end to this, and sew those channels shut. First I had to hold on to each corner and shake (like crazy!) the majority of the feathers to the middle.

Then I started with each corner square and made sure each box was closed with stitching. I did the same down rows near the edge, and then moved to the next inside row. I allowed the outside rows to have access throughout the row, but not to the next row. I made sure most of the feathers were limited to the middle section. Took me over an hour to do this, but, Hooray! Sure beats buying a new down comforter!

Sunday Afternoon Sewing

2011-12-04T23:51:00.000-08:00

My sewing time this weekend consisted of a few hours this afternoon. Not enough time to finish anything, but I got a little done on a few things. Below is some brown wool basket weave fabric from FabricMart.com, to make a coat for my older daughter. I used this same pattern to make her a jacket of cotton twill, which she wears all the time. But she will need a nice warm, dress coat for winter, so why not the same pattern. However, I will somehow have to find 18 buttons of the correct size (7/8"), similar to the one in the photo. Last time I did this I had to go to Hancock Fabrics three times and buy all they had of the right button because they only stock 6 of them at a time! It just figures that of all the hundreds buttons in my stash, I found ONE that I would use with this coat.

While the wool was being pre washed, it's on to the next project, a flannel dress for my younger daughter. She asked for a warm winter dress, but is it close enough to Christmas that I can save it to put under the tree?

The pile of cut pieces

I would have found more garments to cut out but I was feeling my legs from yesterday's humongous workout. So I pulled out these pieces I am saving for a charity quilt, with a pirate theme, and soaked and ironed them to preshrink. The squares were part of a layer cake, and the top two in blue skull design and bright green batik I found at Hancock's, for the back of the quilt. It doesn't look like a very pleasing color coordination to me, but I'm thinking that the kid who ends up with it will only be looking at pirate-themed prints of the fabrics.

Two Mini Cardi's

2011-12-03T21:40:00.000-08:00

So here is the pocket which hides the spot I melted with my iron! I probably didn't have to cut an extra piece as "ribbing". I could have just turned down the upper edge, since the pocket is interfaced. And, as you will see in the lower photos, the pocket should be shorter or the tie belt overlaps it when worn. Ah, well. I'm not going to worry about it.

The version in cotton knit, very comfortable!

And in the gold metallic knit, which by the way, should not be ironed! Let the seams do what they want... I have NEVER melted anything else before! The metal threads get really hot, and melt the acrylic or whatever the other fiber is. I used casual buttons so this can be worn as casual wear as well as to a party. A very unusual color, too. Out of my many, many thread colors I've acquired, nothing matched this fabric! What color is it? Not brown. Not red. Terracotta!

Swimsuit, in December?

2011-12-02T09:45:00.001-08:00

For some reason my 10-yr old daughter started browsing swimsuits on her iPod. (Yet another disadvantage to letting your kids have electronic devices!) She started getting more obsessed with these swimsuits and was emailing me photos of the ones she wanted. I pulled mom-rank and ruled that if she really had to have a two-piece, it should not expose her belly-button. For now, she is accepting that. Whew! We'll see about next year...

Anyway, this is one of the suits she liked, that I didn't have a strong negative reaction to (which she still cringes at.

I pulled out this old pattern from Stretch N Sew and told her I could modify this and that and... she looked at the pattern envelope and said she liked it AS IS! Except, could you add cups? She asked. Um, No. No.

Okay, great! So I used the smallest size on the version on the right. Made a muslin, which she thought was great, wanted me to finish it. (Ha!) By now, I know the difference between cheap swimsuit fabric and good swimsuit fabric, as in, Patagonia.

Here it is! Doesn't she look happy?

Mini Cardi Goes Everywhere

2011-11-30T23:40:00.000-08:00

I bought this pattern from HotPatterns on sale for $9.95. I have no idea when this first came out, but what a classic this is. Too bad HotPatterns doesn't have any more, but maybe you can find another source like eBay.

I have only made the mini cardi so far. Here is my daughter in the first version I made, in heathered blue ITY fabric. Second version, also blue, in cotton knit. I let Isabel choose and I guess the slinky ITY fabric appealed more to her. In the next version, I interfaced the front band (not including the back neck) and brought the sides in a bit. It is cut very straight, and the shape was improved by tapering the sides.

I'm working on a gold lame version, also short-sleeved hip-length. I bought this fabric from Vogue Fabrics in Illinois, "gold metallic knit on brown", 3.99/yd. It is very pretty although completely synthetic fiber. I had my iron set on low(silk/synthetic) but somehow melted a spot in the front when I was pressing the seam. I already had the sleeves set in, so I didn't want to replace the piece. Well, this is a good reason to add the pockets, so that's what I did.

The fabric (did I mention "synthetic"?) does not press well at all, but luckily the interfacing I bought from Fashion Sewing Supply greatly improved the ease of handling. This stuff is so nice! My gold metallic knit was proving to be real disappointingly cheap-o fabric, and Pro-Weft medium fusible interfacing fused to it easily and beautifully! Though I try never to do hand-basting, this seemed necessary to get the patch pockets looking accurate and even. The pockets took a little extra time, but they look so nice.

Here is a tip for setting in 2-pc raglan sleeves. Sew the underarm seam first, leaving the shoulder seam open. Sew this to the back/front assembly. THEN sew the upper seam on the sleeve. Duh! So much easier! Or maybe you already knew this, but I didn't!

Check back for more pictures next time!

Blousy blousy

2011-07-31T10:14:00.000-07:00

I don't usually try to recreate what I see in the sewing magazine photos. But when I saw Burdastyle Magazine's June cover featuring this dress, it reminded me of the coral sandwashed silk I've had stashed for some years. I was a bit suspicious of how the pattern would look made up. There is no waistline on the pattern, and it is cut so loose through the body. Will I regret making this? But on closer inspection of the pattern, I found that it is cut on the bias. Okay, just about everything I have made that is cut on the bias has turned out to have a pretty sophisticated look. I knew I wanted to make both a top and a dress with this pattern. Starting with some soft thin rayon in a lavender print, which I haven't found anything to do with before, I cut a dress muslin.

While fitting the dress without the neckband, my concern was that the neckline would be too low. So I sewed into the shoulder seams another 3/8" which would have been equivalent to cutting the next size down, just in the shoulders. I guess this is an alteration I have done quite a bit except for sewing outerwear. In the front facing photo the silhouette looks quite big around the hips and waist, but because of the bias cut, moving around in the dress doesn't actually make it look that way. The neckband somehow looks a little narrow but, okay, that's the way the pattern is.

And here is my sand washed silk! I pre washed it, and it had some hanging lines, which are now on the diagonal, but I was able to press them out so they are fairly faint. The silk hangs much more beautifully than the rayon. I almost thought I shouldn't cut it on the bias, but it is amazing this way.

Next, to use another silk I have had since before our move to the West Coast! Beautiful ivory silk charmeuse with a jacquard. It's hard to see, but the design is tulips. Love it, and it feels like a dream.

Finally, I have to show you how I got the blouse cut out of ONE yard of Liberty of London fabric! I bought this very pricey fabric (this is not like me) from B&J in New York city. Well, I was there and I had to choose something to bring back home! You know it's expensive! I asked if L of L ever goes on sale, and the clerk kindly said, "No."

Okay, it does look kind of like a maternity top in the picture. But hey, maternity tops are "in"! Anyway, if my 17-yr old says it looks good, it looks good!

So my first idea was to use the fabric for the JJ blouse. But luckily this pattern came along, and it is perfect because it has no buttons or buttonholes to mess up. Now, to get it out of the 1 yard of fabric, I pieced the back corner. There is a photo of the inside, and one of the outside. I didn't actually plan to match the print, but it turned out fairly inconspicuous.

One more useful tip for the neckline. Well, a few more. I widened the edge side of the neckband pattern pieces by 1/4". Somehow this just seemed more pleasing proportionally. And I was very careful to re-trace it so that is was more accurate. I was not happy with my accuracy in the previous 3 versions! Next, I block-fused the pieces. (Thanks, Pam!) Meaning, I cut the pattern pieces out after the fabric was fused to the interfacing. Much, much more accurate this way, and you actually don't take more time or fabric. Remember to stay-stitch and clip the curves, and then to understitch, and press well and carefully. Finally, the last tip which will save you lots of time is, to serge or finish off the edge of the neckband facing instead of folding it in. Then, stitch in the ditch or topstitch from the right side.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Yes, yes, yes!

More Uptown Downtown

2011-01-05T13:35:00.000-08:00

Such an easy dress to make as a Christmas gift for my DD. (See my last entry for more info on this pattern.) The bodice is made in rayon knit, and the skirt in a textured poly knit. For this version, I tried cutting down the neckline a bit further, though not too much. Just shaved off about 1/2" down in the front only. The neckline is still a lot higher than I would like, and this rayon is very stretchy. The edge of the ribbing curls out a bit. I'm very happy with how the navy poly fabric was just right for the skirt part of the dress. I had made a top in it, which turned out to be not very breathable.

Another way to wear the espresso version.

Trudy of HotPatterns was right when she mentioned I would be making a lot of these. Also, if you are at all interested in sewing this dress, you should watch Trudy's great video on how to do it!

Belted Bubble Dress

2010-12-10T13:24:00.000-08:00

Another HotPattern that I couldn't put away! Love this one. It's the Classix Nouveau Uptown Downtown Knit Dress. I am only showing two versions here, but as soon as I get photos of the others I will post them.

Likes
1) I can sew up the whole thing with just my serger, on 4-thread stitch.
2) It is very comfortable.
3) I can use light-weight or heavier-weight knit fabrics.
4) I can change the look very easily with different accessories.
5) The pattern has 3 different sleeve options included.
6) I can sew a trendy look by using a different fabric for the top and the skirt.

Dislike
I had to experiment a bit with different neckline-to-ribbing ratios, and modify the neckline as well as the hem ribbing.

The blue version is in wool jersey. No need to line it; it is very comfortable. That black belt is waaaay old. Though I still remember I paid $60 for it, 20 years ago. Maybe that's why I can't get rid of it. At least it still fits!

The espresso version is also in wool jersey, but in a much lighter weight fabric. I cut the pattern neckline down about an inch in front for the brown version, but what the heck(?) it's still higher than I thought it would be. More neckline adjustments are to be made. I thought I was modest, but modesty does not have to be unflattering. (sshhh! Those shoes are only for standing-still photographs.)

I cut the hem ribbing way down, to a ratio of about 3/4. I like it much better this way--the silhouette is much more trim and modern. I think HotPatterns meant for you to gather the hem edge into the ribbing, but the pattern has the ribbing cut way too big. So big that there is a danger of the ribbing flaring out--oh no. But stand by for more versions--I can't wait to show you!

Teardrop Bag

2010-12-05T10:35:00.000-08:00

Pattern from Amy Butler Style Stitches

06 Teardrop Bag and 07 Key Keeper Coin Purse

Likes:

Adorable style

Size and shape of bag

Only 3 pattern pieces for Teardrop bag

Only 2 pattern pieces for Key Keeper

Simple construction

Dislike:

Wimpy interfacing

Key Keeper Coin Purse

Just looking at this bag makes me happy. My everyday bag is a big black leather and silver hardware thing with lots of pockets on the outside and on the inside. I never noticed how ugly it is until I made my Teardrop bag. I won't be using my Teardrop bag every day, since it would soon be loaded and weighted down with all the odd items every mom ends up carrying. But for the quick run to the store, a nice dinner out, a swim-team parent meeting, Sunday mass, or any time I don't feel like lugging my heavy toolbox/black-leather-purse, I can throw my wallet and my cell phone into this bag and be free. I haven't made a lot of bags, and in my garment sewing frenzy, it's hard to change to a bag-sewing mode. But think of it: a bag is something you wear! And no fitting is needed! Also, you don't really have to determine if that shock of color would look good near your face--if you like it, make it into a bag.

The only thing I would change is to try using a bit heavier interfacing, though it might make the pleat not so crisp. Maybe the solution is to iron on two layers, avoiding the pleat area, but especially around the magnet clasp.

If you don't already have this book, I enthusiastically recommend it. The photos are absolutely luscious, and the directions are very clear and thorough. You just can't go wrong by following these directions. In fact, after making a couple of these bags, you should be able to use Amy's technique to design your own.

Twinkle Jacket Blouse

2010-11-01T22:31:00.000-07:00

Not a great photo, but I'm wearing an ivory silk charmeuse cami underneath--great texture contrast.

This pattern is from the Twinkle Sews book, which I have thoroughly enjoyed. Eye for an Eyelet is the 3rd pattern I have made from the book; I also made the A-Plus A-Line skirt twice (highly recommend!), and the English Garden skirt.

I loved the idea of using black eyelet fabric as in the book's version, and I happened to have some, but it is some kind of nylon fabric with a slight stretch. If you ask me, a little stretch is always good, especially since this is the first top I have sewn from the designer. The stretch fabric made the shaping that is cut into the waistband redundant, but that's okay. So I was eager to try the pattern with a woven, and I've had this sage linen sitting around for ages. I used the big huge snaps on this version since the wide button band is perfect for them. Next? I would love to try making this in wool with a lining.

Aphrodite for Me!

2010-10-28T16:33:00.000-07:00

I already had the size 6 cut out, and so to make a version of HotPatterns Mighty Aphrodite top for myself, all I had to do was to taper the waist and hip area to about an 8 while cutting. Oh, yes, and trace out the long sleeve. So this went FAST! Finished in about a day, in between driving kids to activities and cooking meals.

While cutting out the pieces, I discovered a great way to get the grainline more accurate. This fabric, a rayon knit, I think, has very wavy selvedge. I think these knits are usually knit in a tube, then the tube is cut open and the edges glued so they don't unravel. So there was no way I could use the selvedge as a grainline reference. Here's what I did, using 3 quilting rulers.

1) Line up a large quilting ruler somewhere off the pattern piece, right along a row of knit stitches. You may have to pick up the fabric and rearrange it so that it is straight.

Lining up the stitches along the ruler

2) Use one 12" ruler to measure from the large ruler to the grainline marked on the pattern piece. It is much easier to place the piece and the rulers so that the mark is to the nearest inch. That way you won't have to remember fractions of an inch.

3) Use another 12 ruler down at the other end of the pattern piece to measure the same distance as the first 12" ruler. If the measurement doesn't match, then pivot the pattern piece without moving the other end, so that it does. In the photo I used a shorter ruler because I couldn't find my other 12-inch(these things are so handy, everybody in the family uses them.)

Other sewing details
1) While reading the instructions more closely this time, I figured out how they wanted me to sew the hem flounce on, though it still leaves out a couple of steps. There is no "slit" needed for the drawcord to pass through because you turn it up at the hem, then open the wide seam allowance out and stitch the channels. The drawcords will come out of the bottom of the channels. The flounce is supposed to be sewn on, tapered to the drawcord area. It just needs a snip to let the seam allowance free from the drawcord channel. So you bypass a triangular piece of the flounce as you sew it on.

2) In the comments section of my pattern review of this top, Nancy K provided some very helpful info on sewing the shoulder pleat. Yesss!

I traced this out and couldn't figure out the pleats either, so I emailed Trudy and got a diagram back. The notches line up as follows: the first notch which is single, lines up with the first of the next two notches. The second one lines up with the first of the next two etc.

3) I used my serger to sew a 2-thread rolled hem at the edge of the flounce and at the sleeve edges. In the ITY versions I did not finish off the flounce edge at all. (Check RTW--they do it all the time now!)

Goddess T-shirt

2010-10-26T15:44:00.000-07:00

Well it seems I'm drawn to designs reminiscent of classical Greece. While browsing through Off the Cuff I was intrigued by one of the new HotPatterns she was exclaiming over. I had tried two HotPatterns before, and though I liked the concept and loved the drawings, the actual garments I had made seemed a bit, well, not right on. But okay, so it's easy to click on links and soon enough I found the absolutely charming HotPattern videos. I have to admit, it doesn't take much to sell me on anything having to do with sewing! These videos are wonderful and I just loved that there is a story behind each design--of course! Found myself ordering 3 patterns, one of which is the Deco Vibe Mighty Aphrodite Draped T-Shirts pattern. I was thinking of making it for Isabel, my 16-year-old Greek Goddess.

A while ago, I was going crazy over ITY fabric, and bought a boxful from FabricMart. I still have quite a bit left, and when I saw the Mighty Aphrodite pattern, I knew ITY's drape and stretch would be perfect for it. Also, it seems wrinkleproof and almost indestructible.The chocolate color was supposed to be my muslin, but I think it actually looks better than the red, which, even for the holidays, seems a little bit unnatural. Take a look at the two different colors. They are both exactly the same size, except I noticed on the red version, that the sleeves were a bit loose so I cut the hem off, tightened the sleeve and re-hemmed so it is a little shorter. Isabel also prefers the chocolate. I thought it would look quite dull, but it actually looks great with her hair color.

And good news! I found a stash of fine rayon knit to make a version for myself! It will be in dark gray, maybe a size up.

T-shirt Rebellion

2010-10-24T14:48:00.001-07:00

I refuse to wear T-shirts. They look absolutely terrible on me and worse, make me feel completely dowdy. But souvenir T-shirts are still fun to receive, and they can be great conversation starters for meeting strangers with a shared interest.

So this is what I do with T-shirts. I cut them up with no regret! Slash, lop and snip! No more chokey neckline! No more baggy waist!

The Jalie pattern I like to use as a template is a tank/camisole top with a marvelously flattering cut which I have used over and over and over again. Unfortunately I do not think Jalie prints the pattern anymore, but it wouldn't be complicated to draft your own.

For the Chicagofight top, I used a strip I cut off from the hem to create straps. One side is "hemmed", the other side is a double raw edge. I needed more strips to create the lattice effect, so I cut more strips off the bottom of the T-shirt and "hemmed" them to match the cut off hem.

For the Aldo Nadi top I created wide straps/sleevettes by cutting rectangles the length of the measurement over the shoulder from front bodice to upper back, and about 6 inches wide. Then I simply gathered the ends of the straps and sewed them onto the fronts and backs.

So don't be afraid, cut into them! Your T-shirts are bound to look better than before!

Goddess dress

2010-10-20T08:40:00.001-07:00

Okay, I've decided to fire this blog up again, after a long absence. I was somewhat annoyed by how long it takes to load photos, but I think it might be better now.

I made this dress from Burdastyle magazine pattern 7-2010-117, for my niece, Malia. Available for download at Burdastyle.
It looks fine in the photo, but it is about 2 sizes bigger than I would have made for myself. The ITY fabric is really stretchy. This is the second version of the dress I've made.

The first was in white, for my daughter, to wear at a wedding. And yes, she looked almost too fabulous. We were concerned about her having exposed shoulders in the church so we added a dark blue military style jacket which I think went perfectly with the dress. She loves contrast, too. But guess what--all the bridesmaids were shamelessly wearing completely strapless dresses! Yes, you knew it! At the reception, my daughter had a little bit of slippage of the upper edge of the bodice while she was dancing, but well, she moves around quite a bit. Malia really liked the dress so I promised her one, which conveniently arrived around her birthday.

Some sewing details: On the white version I underlined the whole dress with self-fabric. This was necessary, as it is white. However, this thickened the seams. It was okay, as no one but me would notice this. The directions have you doubling the fabric for the drape but I didn't think this was necessary, so I used a single layer for the navy version. You should experiment with positioning the lower end of the drape before sewing it in, somehow. An afterthought on my part. I think different fabrics definitely drape differently. On the navy version, I twin-needle stitched the hem, but on the white version because of the underline, it would have been too thick, so I used the pseudo blind-stitching feature on my Pfaff.

Winner!

2010-01-24T21:02:00.000-08:00

Patternreview.com had a Sewing for Men contest, and I entered the pea coat I made for Eamon. This was the first thing Eamon ever asked me to make for him so I had to admit I was delighted, and worked on it steadily until it was finished. The pattern is Burda Magazine 10-2006-129. They made it up in leather and their pockets were placed much higher due to the belt in the design. I eliminated the belt and made it in black heavy wool. My pattern review

I also entered the Pendleton wool shirt I made as a Christmas present for Mike. Got some nice comments on this, too, but the pea coat was very popular, and it won 1st place! The prize is a free online class at Patternreview.com. Excellent--I will use it!

By the way, I have a group on flickr.com called Sewing for Men. I've been trying to get it going, but it has bee tough attracting entries, so spread the word!

It's been a while

2009-09-07T22:52:00.000-07:00

Well, I guess I would be more motivated to blog if it were easier to load photos. So now it's been a whole year since I posted anything here, but I actually have been creating lots of projects!

Make it easier for me, Google! It takes so darn long to load photos...grrr!

At left here is a photo I took in a store window of an outfit both my teenage daughter and I fell in love with. It has sort of a Burdastyle flavor. And somehow I have tons of pinstripe fabrics. Just not any red metallic ones, like this here. My daughter loves lots of hardware on clothes. The other day she saw a hoodie sweatshirt, normal style except for 4 metal belt buckles fastened to the front, over the center zip. I thought, "How impractical!" and then realized the buckles actually had snaps behind them. Ha, more hardware! She was so drooling over that jacket... I think I'm finally starting to understand what her clothing preferences are. Stuff that will ding my dryer until the family screams, "Stop that awful noise!"

First Recital

2008-08-09T19:01:00.000-07:00

I enjoy singing, but in preparing for this, my first solo recital, I may be trying to be too professional. Therefore, I am fussing and spending too much time memorizing words. So there goes practicing in the Musical Sewing Room. I try to work on memorization and as I get distracted lining up the next seam, it degenerates to la-la-la.

Can you believe I took this photo myself with a tripod? Gi'me the look, baby...
Um, yes, I made that dress.

Sword & Skull Bag

2008-08-09T18:31:00.000-07:00

Last year when I took up fencing I made myself a fencing equipment bag, just because I could. As a true designer might expect, contemplating the design took longer than making the bag. Not wanting to go through this again, I thought I would never make another one. But as it turned out, I really wanted to contribute something original to our fencing salle's fundraising event, so I donated a "custom-made fencing bag". Before I made this one, I wrote down instructions for myself with the intention of making it available online for free eventually. Burdastyle.com is inspiring me to create my own patterns and share them. They even have the instructions for creating a .pdf file for patterns and uploading them.

The person who "won" this bag at auction really likes red. And I had the cool silver skull brocade fabric which I snatched up on ebay--I knew somebody would like it!

Who knows if anyone else is interested in sewing a fencing bag, but if fencing becomes more popular, maybe those grammas could get involved...

New Bundle Assortments!

2008-06-04T14:59:00.000-07:00

Just got the 4 assortments I ordered from Fabric Mart today. What a deal! Corduroy assortment, blouse weight assortment, semi-sheer dress weight crepes assortment, and dark-colored stripe and plaid suiting assortment, a total of 48 yards for $60. But since I ordered it when there was a sale on the website, I got it for even less--the equivalent of free shipping, so about $1 a yard!

I like ordering the assortments because it allows me to try different fabrics that I might not have chosen, stretching my design imagination. Outrageous colors get relegated to Halloween costumes.

Check out the huge heavy box--so much fabric!

Silk Jacket

2008-02-23T09:42:00.000-08:00

What drew me to this Onion pattern was the simplicity of the design. Ties instead of buttons. No pockets. Band collar rather than notched.

This became the chosen pattern for the silk tweed in my stash. I once had a cream wool jacket(from the 80's!) with wide black banding at the edges which was really me. So, keeping that in mind, I deduced that black details would make this jacket successful. I am surprised at how good it looks in the photo.

One small problem is that--maybe you knew it--this jacket cannot be worn open! So it's a good thing I made it from breathable silk, and silk lining which feels like a dream.

Another small problem with it is that the wide overlap in front creates quite some bulk right there. I suppose I could get used to it. But if the jacket is always worn closed, why put up with the overlap? Maybe the underlap side should be cut a few inches narrower on the inside, or angled a bit.

The back view

I added an extra pair of back darts. I am beginning to realize this is a consistent alteration.

One other thing, this jacket sure reminds me of a karate ghee!

Blue Velvet Gloves

2008-02-05T08:08:00.000-08:00

Why make gloves?What attracted me was that gloves take hardly any fabric. No interfacing, and seemingly little time. It's just another thing I wanted to be able to make.

Vogue V8311 offers 9 different variations on the woman's glove. I chose view A, without sewing on the jeweled embellishments. The blue velvet needs no embellishment, don't you agree? In fact, I was surprised at how elegant these make my hands look, elongating my fingers and slenderizing my wrists... My amateur photography just doesn't show any of this.

I was expecting to be doing a bit of hair-pulling, but maybe because of my choice of fabric, this project was actually fairly easy. The stretch blue-velvet panne hides any sewing imperfections, and does not unravel at all.

Next project-- After finishing these, I started diggi

ng in my stash and scraps for fabric for the next pair of glamour gloves. I found just enough fine milk chocolate-colored kid leather! Makes it not so bad that my DD just ran away with the blue ones...

The thumb piece sewn Glove pieces

Before adding gussets

Another Cloak

2007-12-18T10:50:00.000-08:00

So the friend who requested the cloak I showed you earlier in this blog, asked for another to give as a gift to a fellow SCA enthusiast. This person likes red. But in order for the cloak not to look like Little Red Riding Hood, I needed to think of something different.

I found this beautiful tapestry fabric in the home dec section of Fashion Fabrics Club. Conveniently, it had a nice repeating pattern that was easily divide-able in straight lines. I edged it with black velvet ribbon instead of folding the edges under since the fabric ravels easily and is bulky. Dry clean only! Even though I did pre-wash the red wool melton. In the second photo of the cutting layout, it shows how I had to cheat a bit since the wool did shrink, and the pattern would not fit onto the fabric. Oh, well, it's such a large expanse of fabric I thought, it won't be noticed. Here, my son is modeling the cloak. Yes, I did make the boots that he is wearing, too, using directions from a book called The Medieval Tailor's Assistant.

Halloween Rush

2007-11-08T19:55:00.000-08:00

I thought I never again would have to sew Halloween costumes, but this year there was a party we could not miss. So once again, I found myself spending hours in the sewing room. I don't mind sewing to a set of instructions, but hey, I just can't make a copycat version of a pattern.

Isa wanted to be Queen Boudica. She needed a leather armored chestplate and she also likes corsets, so I created a heavy leather corset which looked very armor-y. I used a leather needle but this leather was so thick I had to manually help the wheel on my sewing machine with just about every stitch! Luckily the seams weren't very long, but there were four of them. She also wanted a plaid cloak. The fabric arrived on the 31st, so we didn't have time to cut it into a semi-circular type cloak and it ended up being draped. The leather, which a friend gave me, is tough enough for shoe soles, and in fact, I did use it to make the boot soles for the last costume described here.

Here's my costume.

The main thing was, I got the idea that I would use up some fabric from my stash that had no other chance of emerging from the closet. I started sewing this dress on Halloween, having cut most of it the day before. I used a regular peasant-type dress pattern but cut the sleeves bigger and let them dangle instead of gathered at the wrist. I wasn't sure what it was going to be, so I asked my husband, and he said "Fortune Teller!"

Eamon is happy with just about any costume and I picked this for him. He is a big Monty Python fan. All the materials for this I had in my stash except for the pleather which was new from the Denver fabrics closeout. That darn lion applique was supposed to be ironed on with a fusible but it wouldn't stick to the nylon taffeta. I had to sew it on by hand, and no, I couldn't just pick regular thread, but a metallic thread that kept fraying! I made the boots with pleather uppers and thick leather soles. The toes weren't intended to be curled up but that's how they came out and it has a very funny effect. I had this metallic knit which I used for the sleeves. The sleeves were attached to one of his old T-shirts he wasn't wearing any more.

Next year? I guess I'll try to start earlier.

Clean and Modest

2007-09-15T10:37:00.000-07:00

Jalie 2682 has become one of my favorite patterns. I love the sleeveless version because it has long slimming lines and does not show bra straps. Shaping is built in to the seams, so the top can have some ease around the waist and still be flattering. It also does not show large bare expanses of chest. The first top shown is made with cotton/lycra.
The top part of the front is actually a double layer of fabric. Without the zipper, it is folded over. With the zipper, it is cut in two pieces each side, and each side sandwiches the zipper. I had some reservations about the double layer with the thicker fabrics, but it actually works out well, creating a smoother layer over the bust.

In the light turquoise version, also a cotton/lycra, I added strips of leopard-print velour as trim.

I made two long-sleeved versions. One is with a print of rayon knit, which was quite stretchy. This top is so comfortable it almost feels like wearing nothing at all.

The latest one I just finished is made with Eco-wool (machine-washable) from fabricline.com. I am planning to use this as a winter running top. The fabric is not as stretchy as the rayon, of course, so I added some ease to the waist, tapering out from the underarms. However, I just discovered by looking at these photos, I should have added the ease to the underarm/bust area as well... It doesn't feel tight, though a little pull line can make it look a bit less than perfect. This version has a zipper, essential for running. I think I'll like this for just hanging out in.
Next time I'll make it in fleece!

Burnoose

2007-09-09T08:59:00.001-07:00

Welcome to my Musical Sewing Room! I have been meaning to begin my sewing blog for a long time! The problem was trying to decide what project to start with. I think you will really like this one.

A friend who is involved in SCA had a request for a cloak.

I looked at two patterns from Folkwear and decided on the simpler one, the Moroccan Burnoose, though I bought both cloak patterns. Black wool seemed to be the obvious choice for the outer material. The cloak has so much expanse of fabric that the color needs to be very conservative, although I read that black dye was actually very expensive in medieval times. This is a very special, skin-friendly wool boucle from fashionfabrics.com.

I lined it with rainwear fabric I had bought a few years ago from a Seattle Fabrics booth at the sewing expo in Puyallup. You guessed it--the cloak is reversible. The binding is black polyester braid. I bound the hems separately, as I sort of expected the wool layer to "grow" as it is worn, while the lining won't budge.

The clasp is from grannd.com. The cloak is sewn closed by using a piece of the binding as reinforcement, a very good design choice by the patternmakers. Before even starting this project I fussed over what to do about the closure, which has to take the stress of the whole weight of the cloak. In the movie, 300, the cloak wearers had a leather strap to keep the cloak from riding up and strangling them in their fighting frenzy. But I don't think my friend is going to be fighting in this cloak so this type of closure is okay. The beautiful clasp is only there as decoration, so I pinched the hook closed.